The Johnny Do It Yourself Wiki!

Dyeing Accessories and Figures:

Accessories:

Technique #1

The following is specifically intended for the CXR made accessories, but should also work on dyeing vintage accessories.

1. Use RIT Dye. It is the industry standard and suitable for use on accessories. I don't recommend Pearl Gray or Denim Blue, I haven't had good results with these colors. If you ever end up with a color you don't like, Navy Blue and Black will cover up just about anything.
2. Your item must be thoroughly clean and dry. Scrub and scrub and then scrub some more. You can also brush lightly with acetone and rinse clean before dyeing. Dry thoroughly. Any water on the surface will leave a spot.
3. I have had equal success with powder and liquid dye. You have to make sure the powder is totally dissolved. However, it is worth it, as the powdered dye comes in a lot more colors.
4. I use a 4-cup dye bath. Any pan or bowl will work. Note that plastic bowls will be stained. I use 5 cup 'GladWare' ontainers. This size dye bath is good for 1 - 2 sets of accessories.
5. For a 4-cup dye bath use 2 tablespoons of liquid dye or 1 tablespoon of powdered dye. Mix thoroughly.
6. Do not boil your dye! It smells really bad and can cause foam or bubbles to form on the surface of the items you are dyeing. The optimum temperature is 140 - 150 degrees. Use a cheapie candy thermometer to monitor the temperature.
7. Dunk for about 5 minutes to start. After that, check every 2 minutes until you get a good color. 12 minutes is usually the maximum.
8. Rinse in warm water, then rinse in a bath of 1 tablespoon bleach to 1 quart of water. Rinse again in water until it runs clear.
9. Let dry thoroughly. Don't let different color pieces touch until thoroughly dry or they might transfer color.
10. Your item must cure thoroughly. The dye will continue to work and penetrate the full thickness of the item for quite a while. Don't put the item on a figure for more than a quick check of your handiwork for 7 - 10 days or color may transfer.
11. Sometimes, after 7 - 10 days, your color may seem to lighten and lose intensity. This is not fading, this is curing. The dye is penetrating the full thickness of the item. If it gets too light, repeat the clean and dye process.

Figures:

Dyeing figures is a long and complicated procedure.

Clear-coating or Top-coating will not prevent the color from losing it's intensity. Dyed figures do not 'fade' (unless exposed to UV light for a long time). The loss in color intensity or changing color is due to the fact that the dye is curing.

On a figure, the curing process will continue for weeks, even months as the dye reacts with the plastic and permeates into the item. That is why dyed figures usually look dull and odd-colored after several

months.

Technique #1

Dyeing figures is a multi-stage process. Clean, scrub, dye and dry. When the color begins to dull, do it again. Do it as many times as necessary to maintain the desired color. It could take up to a year. Clear-coating elminates your ability to re-color your figures.

As the dye is curing you do not want the hands or heads to be in contact with the dyed body. The dye will leach into the softer plastic and you'll end up with 'ring around the collar' and 'ring around the wrist'. These rings cannot be cleaned off - the plastic is now that color!

Tips

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